...and I thought of this Pettibon watercolor. I had a conversation with a professor/colleague the other day who had lived in Vancouver and then Berkeley for a long time. He basically told me Southern Cal surf was a pitiful excuse for real surf, and the only place to be a serious surfer was above Santa Cruz.I freely admit: I don't really like big surf. I'm happiest when the swell is a foot or two overhead, and since I'm small, that really doesn't need to be a very big swell at all. Any more size than that and I start to spend as much time being a little bit (sometime a lot) scared as I do having fun, and that's just dumb.
I suppose that most of the things I do I do because they're a little bit scary, though. I don't think I've ever made the easy choice in my life, but a wave like this? No way. Never.
(Speaking of patterns one has entered into for one's whole life: this study has been getting a lot of airtime lately. I haven't gone through the science of it yet, but...anecdotally, it feels about right).
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